{"id":1450,"date":"2021-01-29T07:10:33","date_gmt":"2021-01-29T07:10:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/?p=1450"},"modified":"2021-03-24T19:33:05","modified_gmt":"2021-03-24T19:33:05","slug":"belay-device-policy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/belay-device-policy\/","title":{"rendered":"Belay Device Policy"},"content":{"rendered":"

Assisted Braking Device Policy<\/h2>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>
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Effective March 1st, 2021<\/h4>\n

\u00dcG will require the use of Assisted Braking Devices for all top rope & lead belaying.<\/h5>\n

As climbing evolves, so do the technology, techniques, and best practices we use to mitigate the risk of our sport.\u00a0 Assisted Braking Devices (ABD\u2019s) provide extra stopping force either through the geometry of the device or a mechanism in the device that actively grabs the rope.\u00a0 Used properly, ABD\u2019s provide an additional layer of protection against roped climbing accidents.\u00a0 They assist belayers in arresting falls and make it easier to lower climbers in a controlled manner.<\/p>\n

We understand that tube-style belay devices, such as the ATC, also work well when used properly.\u00a0 However, they don\u2019t provide a backup in the event of a belayer losing control of the brake strand.\u00a0 While we acknowledge that tube-style devices still play a role in climbing, due to advancements in technology, we feel as though they are no longer ideal for single pitch applications.\u00a0 As all indoor climbing is single pitch climbing, we are updating our belay policy to require the use of ABD\u2019s for ALL belaying at \u00dcbergrippen.<\/p>\n<\/div>

This policy change doesn\u2019t change the way we expect people to belay.\u00a0 As always, all belayers must maintain control of the brake strand at all times and be alert and attentive while belaying.\u00a0 ABD\u2019s are not \u201cauto-locking\u201d or \u201chands-free\u201d and should not be treated as such.<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

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Unapproved devices<\/strong><\/span> include all classic tube style devices that do NOT have a geometric brake assist (ATCs, Verso, etc), eight plates, and stitch plates. This is not an exhaustive list of approved devices; please feel free to ask our staff if you have any questions on what is acceptable or not.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

Approved devices<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0include both passive geometric brake assist such as the Jul2, MegaJul, ATC Pilot, Smart, and ClickUp, and active brake assist such as the Petzl GriGri, Trango Verso, and Wild Country Revo.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

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If you don’t have an ABD…<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>
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Free<\/span><\/strong> Instruction<\/h4>\n

If you\u2019ve never used an ABD before, our staff will happily show you how to use any ABD.\u00a0 No appointment required, just come see us at the desk!<\/p>\n<\/div>

Free<\/strong><\/span> ABD demos<\/h4>\n

Whether you\u2019re buying your first ABD or just looking to expand your arsenal, we will be loaning out various ABD\u2019s so you can test them out on a few climbs and see how you like them.\u00a0 We have the following devices available.<\/p>\n

Edelrid Jul 2
\nEdelrid Mega Jul<\/strong>
\nEdelrid Giga Jul<\/strong>
\nBeal Birdie<\/strong><\/p>\n

Petzl Grigri<\/strong>
\nPetzl Grigri+<\/strong>
\nBlack Diamond ATC Pilot<\/strong>
\nClimbTech Clickup<\/strong>
\nMammut Smart\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","inline_featured_image":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1450","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-covid"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1450","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1450"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1450\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1591,"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1450\/revisions\/1591"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1450"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1450"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ugclimbing.com\/denver\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1450"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}